Boracay -- Places to go on a rainy day

When we tired of sitting on the beach, we walked to that abomination, D’Mall, something I had sworn I would never patronize but that turned out to be quite useful in The Time of Habagat. We had some really good Italian food in Arya, did some shopping, admired the ferris wheel and climbing wall, mingled with the crowds of Koreans, then set out to find Real Foods, a holdover from the days when Boracay was still quaint and nipa-roofed. After a search – the beachfront establishments change all the time, but we were hungering for their uniquely delicious kalamansi muffins and persevered – we found it. It hadn’t changed a bit in 10 years, but was fast losing its beachcomber charm, hemmed in as it was with concrete buildings. It belonged to another era, overtaken by the concrete-glass-and-pool establishments. There was one right next door, the Astoria, and further down the beach, Estacio Uno. Both very charming and well-designed but merely small versions of the Uber-concrete-glass-and-pool-moderne-hot place that probably started the whole trend, Discovery Shores. Not for them the rustic or the tropical beach look … there was not a bamboo or nipa in sight … strictly for concrete-loving urbanites. I would call it the Makati-by-the-Sea look.

My favorite place to stay is Sea Wind. It’s still old-style Boracay …. Lots of nipa and bamboo, and a spacious beach front because its cottages are set back, not smack on the beach.

All the establishments had big frames of plastic sheeting to shelter their customers from the rain and wind. We decided to venture away from the beach and checked out a new place on the other side of the island called Asya. It was spectacular, in a dignified, quiet and serene way. There was a very zen-like entrance that led to the focus of the resort: the swimming pool, a circle reached by a long flight of stairs that descended, arrow-like, towards it. The stairs were regularly interrupted with landings that contained a small circular pond, echos of the big pool below. A narrow band of water bisected the steps, trickling down calmly, every now and then blending with the shallow ponds, before flowing on down to its ultimate destination. How philosophical it all was!

Once down, however, all philosophical thoughts were tossed aside while we got down to the serious business of ordering drinks, pica-pica and dinner. Tables were perched between the pool and the cliff, overlooking the white-sand cove down below and the sunset ahead. There was no red sunset to enjoy but large gaps in the clouds filled us with optimism that sun-filled days awaited us.

A Little Off-Track - Boracay in the Time of Habagat

We thought we were in luck when we arrived, as there was a little sun after, as we were told, days of rain. Yay! But, we were told further, another storm was on its way. The day turned out beautiful, in a blustery, windy, on-again-off-again half-sunny way. That huge expanse of white sand was bright and blinding even in overcast, grey skies. Every now and then blue skies would tear a hole through the grey sheet and the sun would shine and we would rejoice. The wind would continue unabated and the wind-surfers were out,

skimming the whole length of the beach in the shallow water and occasionally jumping up and being swept a few meters by the wind.

This is when I appreciated Boracay sand. It’s the best sand in the world, not just because it’s so powdery soft and white but because in the scorching sun it stays cool and on windy days, such as this, it doesn’t fly. These qualities are not often remarked on or appreciated but, for me, it’s what makes Boracay the best beach in the world. No hopping around on burning soles to get to the water, and no sand getting in one’s eyes whenever anyone passes by. The wind was fierce and in any other beach, we would be getting stung from all the sand whipping us by. But there we sat comfortably, watching the windsurfers and skimboarders, contentedly savoring the sunny patches and hoping for more. The only nuisance was the unending parade of vendors, offering sunglasses, hats and pearls.